Makati eats: Flow serves a taste of Peru through Filipino ingredients

Flow is located off Chino Roces Avenue Extension in Makati. Jeeves de Veyra

Late last year, Flow emerged on the “must-eat” recommendations of the most discerning of foodies, heaping high praise for the restaurant’s Peruvian flavors from its opening tasting menu.

According to co-owners and best buds Chef Kevin Jonathan Uy and Gabriel “Gato” Ong, “flow” reflects constant movement, evolution, and creativity and is an essential part of Peruvian culture, arts, music, and cuisine.

I was curious as there are very few restaurants that can really say that they have unadulterated Peruvian cuisine, with many offering Nikkei food. That is, Japanese food by way of South America from immigrants who landed back in the late 19th century. There is still a bit of that, but the dishes that the duo present on their menu are refreshingly different.

 Chefs Kevin Uy and Gato Ong with the Flow team. Jeeves de Veyra

Chef Kevin Uy acquired a taste for the real thing, cooking in the kitchens of Central under the mentorship of Chef Vergilio Martínez Véliz. Central has landed on the Top 50 World’s Best Restaurants in the World for its investigation and integration of Peruvian cuisine using lesser-known indigenous ingredients in their food.

It’s this sensibility of interpreting Peruvian flavors using lesser-known homegrown Filipino ingredients that have made its way into this nondescript space off the crowded fine dining environs of Chino Roces Extension.

Flow has a somewhat hidden entrance at the back side of the Green Sun complex. It’s a small cozy place with a communal central chef’s table surrounded by booths for those who just want to be on their own. The décor is minimalist accented with featured ingredients in bell jars up on the walls.  There is an enclosed private dining room out back for those looking for private parties.

Flow’s interiors. Jeeves de Veyra

Private room. Jeeves de Veyra

I missed the first edition of Flow’s menu that Chef Kevin regards as his tribute to his Central mentor. With that menu, he described it as a geeky excursion through Peru’s different biomes.

With the second edition of Flow’s menu, it’s a different road trip guided by memories, emotions, and nostalgia of Chef Kevin’s time in Peru. From shared after-hours crew meals in the Central kitchen, to after-school kiddie treats found on street corners, this menu is more down-to-earth. Uncommon dishes on bespoke dinnerware from Filipino artisans, along with the team’s acting as tour guides on this journey, just adds to the fun and whimsy.

Caldo de Gallina. Jeeves de Veyra

Describing this first dish as simple chicken soup is doing it a disservice. Wide noodles swimming in what I thought was concentrated chicken broth in this bowl of Picarones make this, as Chef Kevin describes it, Flow staring off with a welcome hug.

Parihuela. Jeeves de Veyra

This was a deconstructed Parihuela, a Peruvian seafood stew. I thought that Chef Kevin did this on purpose to amplify the blue swimmer crab’s flavors. Take it by itself first, then make a wrap with the herby green avocado sauce with the crab fat infused flatbread to complete this course.

Cacao Ceviche. Jeeves de Veyra

One really can’t have a Peruvian menu without a ceviche. Chef Kevin explained that they do have as many versions of ceviche as they have souring agents. The leche de tigre in this case is made with local cacao that still has that brightness but with a  creamy hit of chocolate.

Ronda Marino. Jeeves de Veyra

I’d recommend taking this trio of bites in the order of the intensity of flavors. Start off with the clams on toast, then abalone with the heat from yellow pepper, then finish off with the spicy anticucho polpo. Of note is the last bite which is their way of approximating that texture of chicken heart using octopus. There is still that somewhat soft chewiness but none of the sometimes offputting metallic aftertaste associated with the ingredient.

Chupe de Camaron. Jeeves de Veyra

This Chupe de Camaron was my personal favorite in the tasting menu. Crack the paper thin rice cracker that covers grilled ulang, or local river prawns, and mochi to get a chewy and slightly crunchy bite. Make sure to have some of that concentrated shrimp sauce reduction that lines the bowl to get its full flavor.

Pachamanca. Jeeves de Veyra

This duo of pigeon revolves around the pachamanca, a Peruvian hot stone oven. They bring out a mortar and pestle and make the uchucata, a chimichurri-like herby hot sauce made with Marigold leaves, on the table. A steamed fermented black rice cake accompanies oven baked breast and a grilled leg glazed with an earthy kadyos sauce.

After the main course, the Emoliente is a cup of chamomile, lemongrass, and flaxseed tea to cleanse the palate before dessert.

Langkasuy. Jeeves de VeyraThink of this first of two desserts as a subtle play on langkasuy. That is what this Combinados of jackfruit jelly and cashew nougat.

Picarones. Jeeves de Veyra

Chef Kevin finally ends with the Picarones, his favorite children’s street snack found on the streets of Peru. I felt like a kid again after a cracking bite of these donuts with a candied shell topped with carabao milk ice cream, sugar spike be damned.

With this tasting menu, Flow presents an overall dining experience combining uncommon Peruvian flavors, storytelling, and colorful presentation. This winding flavorful road trip makes this restaurant easily worth a stop, or a detour.