Elbert Cuenca: The making of a restaurateur

Elbert Cuenca in Harry’s BistroWhen I asked Elbert Cuenca what first drew him to the restaurant business, he took me back to a childhood dinner.

“I was a very young boy, well under 10 years old, when my parents took me to a restaurant called Madrid on EDSA. I should’ve been too young to appreciate such an experience, but I could never forget it.”

He remembers the tuxedo-clad maître d’, the waitresses dressed like Victorian-era maids in black dresses, white aprons, caps, and gloves, and the crystal chandeliers. The walls and furniture were painted gold; the tables were covered in white linen and set with fine china and silverware. 

“I later learned that Madrid was the place for the high society. It was lavish. It felt like I was in a castle.”

But what Elbert thinks about the most was the big band and how guests would interrupt dinner to fill the large dance floor. 

“I don’t remember why I was there, or what I ate, but it was one of the most magical experiences of my childhood, and it was something I bragged about to my classmates, none of whom could relate to what I was talking about.”

After that, eating out felt special for Elbert. His parents enjoyed taking the family to restaurants, especially after Sunday Mass. Because his mother worked for Philippine Airlines, the family had the privilege of traveling around the world.

“I guess this is what shaped me to become a restaurateur. I grew up eating out, but I always desired a memorable experience, just like I had with Madrid.”

Elbert’s Steak Room BarIn 1977, Elbert’s father became involved in Furusato, a Japanese restaurant that was well regarded at the time. He joined the business in 1995 and helped open Zen, its junior restaurant.

“This was also a turning point for me. I was the marketing head of both a traditional and upscale Japanese brand, while also helping launch a novel and modern create-your-own-bento concept. Both were highly successful, but I wanted to venture off on my own.”

Elbert’s Steak Room Main Dining AreaBefore returning to restaurants, he took on consultancy work and followed his interest in gadgets and computers. At Republic of Malate, a friend proposed bringing restaurant-style customer service into a retail setting. That led to a job at Mobile One, a first-of-its-kind gadget store specializing in personal technology.

He later joined the marketing department of Microwarehouse, the distributor of the gadgets Mobile One served. While working with electronics, he became what he called the “evangelist” for Palm and Apple devices. It was also while peddling electronics that he came up with the idea for a restaurant that would host guest chefs regularly.

Elbert’s Steak Room Private Dining RoomElbert left his job to open Restaurant 12 in Greenbelt 2 in 2002. He found an investor, asked Ed Calma to partner and design the interiors, and convinced Ayala Land to award him a space in its then-new development.

The restaurant was a hit at first, but it closed within two years. I asked about the lessons he still carries from that experience. He pointed to what he learned from the closure and the very different kind of restaurant he decided to open next.

“I learned what I could from my failure and decided to open the exact opposite of that restaurant—one that was simple and low-key instead of high-profile.”

USDA Choice Grade Bone-in Tenderloin and USDA Prime Grade NY Striploin, Elbert’s Steak RoomIt took years to find a space for Elbert’s Steak Room. When he did, in 2007, he decided to focus on what mattered most to him: the customer experience.

Elbert’s Steak Room added casual lunch service in 2008; before then, it had been dinner-only. Elbert’s Cheesesteak Sandwiches followed in 2009. He joined a ramen business in 2012 and divested in 2018 to focus on his own concepts.

Harry’s Bistro Bar

He went on to open Elbert’s Sandwich Shop, Elbert’s Diner, the speakeasy Elbert’s Upstairs Bar, and Elbert’s Pizzeria. Most of those concepts did not survive the pandemic. In 2023, he expanded Elbert’s Pizzeria’s space into Elbert’s Collective, with a menu that incorporated all his previous concepts. 

“Sadly, Elbert’s Collective only had a brief success and closed last year.”

Elbert says his mind is always racing with new ideas, but that a new restaurant usually comes about through serendipity. 

“I don’t like to fit new ideas in new spaces. Usually, the space comes to me and and everything else falls into place.”

Cochinillo (from the small plates menu) and Beef Stroganoff, Harry’s BistroAround the time he was opening these concepts, he was approached to partner in building Metronome French Restaurant. It opened a few months before the pandemic. When restaurants opened again, Metronome had some fame and success, but later encountered problems and closed in 2024.

Elbert tried to sell the space intact. There were interested parties, but the deals fell through. He eventually took over and opened Harry’s Bistro early this year.

New York Style All-Beef Hotdog and Spaghetti Carbonara, Harry’s BistroNamed after his late Jack Russell Terrier, Harry’s Bistro is an amalgamation of Cuenca’s previous concepts. He says it, like Elbert’s Steak Room, grew out of lessons from earlier ventures.

“At 19 years old, Elbert’s Steak Room is considered an institution,” Elbert said. The space has expanded to fill the entire floor, but the speakeasy approach and steaks-only menu have stayed the same. Some call it a “steakeasy”; many consider it the “OG” of high-end steakhouses.

“The type of customers we serve are typically discreet, but know exactly what they want.”

Harry’s Bistro

Harry’s Bistro is still a baby at under one year old. It’s the kind of place Elbert enjoys: casual and relaxed, with familiar food and unobtrusive service. He says its guests include executives, ladies who lunch, millennials who come for Harry Hour—its version of happy hour—and everyone else who comes for dinner.

When I asked about the people who have influenced him, Elbert shares, “Perhaps the one person who has influenced me most in what I do is Anthony Bourdain. He has taught me to appreciate the stories and the people around food.”

Elbert and wife Liza in Bordeaux, FranceFor a restaurant experience, he remembers Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York as the most impressive. He elaborates, “Every server delivered each dish with perfect timing, graceful movement, and minimal distraction. Even the service charge was included in the menu price.”

In terms of cuisine, “Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin served me the most perfectly cooked delicate seafood.”

Here at home, he shares his current favorites as Josh Boutwood’s Helm, Cara Jalandoni Davis’s Halong, and Carlos Garcia’s Black Pig.