BGC eats: Grand Hyatt brings a taste of Hong Kong in chef collab

After launching a sushi omakase pop-up last September, Grand Hyatt Manila is giving diners a taste of Hong Kong, a favorite destination among many Filipinos. 

The hotel has brought in Chef Edmond Chan Chi Man of One Harbour Road, the signature Chinese restaurant of Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, for a limited-time collaboration. His “Across the Harbour” a la carte and set menus are available until the end of the month, although there have been hints at a longer run.

True to form, the experience is as authentic as it can get — take it from someone who travels to Hong Kong frequently for both work and leisure. Grand Hyatt Manila’s No. 8 China House pulled out its daintiest plates during our media preview of the set menu (P48,888 for 12 persons), which included a mix of solo and family-style portions and a seeming affection for seafood. 

The crispy flavor-packed pair of oyster and Patagonian toothfish was a good start to the meal, but the next dish admittedly had me nervous as someone who hates papaya in all its forms. The fruit was hollowed out to serve as a bowl for the double-boiled soup, which had crab meat, chicken, roast duck, mushrooms and lotus seed. Surprisingly, I ended up liking it — the papaya only lent a subtle sweetness to the silky and deliciously medicinal broth. 

Next came one of One Harbour Road’s most popular offerings, a deep-fried crab shell stuffed with tender crab meat and ribbons of white onion. Essentially a fancier crab cake, it came with Worcestershire sauce for dipping — which was okay, but our Filipino instinct kicked in as we began looking for a more familiar condiment (a.k.a. sweet chili sauce).

Then came a slew of dishes served family-style: wok-fried prawns in a creamy and slightly spicy crab roe sauce; stir-fried Iberico pork and Australian Mulwarra angus, both pepper-forward; and poached vegetables to balance out the strong flavors.

What followed was undoubtedly the favorite dish that afternoon — the luxurious yet comforting boiled rice in lobster broth, filled with pork and mushrooms — with a light and simple mango pudding capping off our meal. 

Speaking through an interpreter, Chef Edward said he is happy to be given the opportunity to bring the flavors of Hong Kong to Manila. 

When asked how he curated the limited-time menu, he said his main consideration was the availability of ingredients (or its local counterparts) to deliver an experience closest to what they serve at One Harbour Road. 

“We wanted to bring an authentic taste to guests,” he said.