Ronda, Spain: Beyond the Postcard

Ronda’s whitewashed buildings sit above the deep El Tajo gorge, with the Andalusian countryside stretching beyond. The town’s historic streets and viewpoints invite a leisurely day of exploring.

There is something about old European towns that never quite loses its appeal. The cobblestone streets, centuries-old buildings, little shops tucked into narrow alleys, and the sense that life has unfolded here for generations. I’ve always enjoyed exploring these places, particularly those where history remains very much part of everyday life.

Ronda, in southern Spain, is one of them. Perched dramatically above a deep gorge in the mountains of Andalusia, Ronda is the kind of town that looks almost too beautiful to be real. Whitewashed buildings sit along the edge of steep cliffs, narrow streets wind through its historic center, and a magnificent stone bridge connects two sides of a town separated by a spectacular ravine.

It’s easy to understand why Ronda has become one of Andalusia’s most photographed destinations. But beyond its famous views, there is much more to discover in this relatively small Spanish town. From centuries-old traditions and local food specialties to unexpected reminders of the Philippines, Ronda offers a wonderful introduction to Andalusian culture. And just outside its historic center, an extraordinary contemporary landmark reveals an entirely different side of the region.

Located in Málaga province, Ronda is part of Andalusia, a region celebrated for its whitewashed villages, olive groves, beautiful countryside and rich cultural heritage. Its most recognizable landmark is Puente Nuevo, the magnificent stone bridge that spans El Tajo gorge, connecting the old and newer sections of town. Completed in 1793, the bridge rises nearly 100 meters above the Guadalevín River. Despite its name, which translates to New Bridge, there’s nothing particularly new about it today. And what a sight it is.

 The surrounding landscape is extraordinary, with mountains stretching into the distance and buildings seemingly perched along the edges of the cliffs. Several viewpoints offer different perspectives of the bridge and the dramatic gorge below. But as impressive as Puente Nuevo is, Ronda’s smaller streets are equally worth exploring. The historic quarter, known as La Ciudad, is a lovely collection of narrow cobblestone walkways, old stone façades, churches and little squares. It’s the kind of place where wandering without a particular destination can be just as enjoyable as visiting the major landmarks. And because Ronda is relatively compact, a day is enough to appreciate many of its highlights, particularly for first-time visitors.

There is no need to rush from one attraction to another. Part of the pleasure is simply taking in the atmosphere, stopping at a traditional shop, or discovering something interesting around the corner. Which is exactly how one of our more unexpected discoveries happened.

While walking through Ronda’s historic streets, we passed a shop selling flamenco dresses and accessories. An old photograph displayed near the entrance caught my attention. It showed a woman wearing what looked unmistakably like a Filipiniana. I mentioned this to the shop owner, who happened to be standing by the doorway, and he immediately confirmed that it was indeed an old photograph from the Philippines. Imagine finding that in a flamenco shop in Ronda!

It was a small encounter, but an interesting reminder of the centuries of history shared by Spain and the Philippines. Even the traditional Spanish folding fan, or abanico, feels familiar.

Our tour guide Natalia Lopez Upin with an abanico, the folding fan that is both a practical companion under the Andalusian sun and a familiar part of Spanish style. Her introductions made exploring Ronda feel all the more personal.

Fans are closely associated with Andalusian culture, particularly flamenco, where larger fans known as pericones are sometimes used in performances. Decorative folding fans also became fashionable accessories in Spain during the 18th and 19th centuries, eventually becoming part of the country’s cultural identity. While fans are certainly not exclusive to Andalusia, they remain a familiar part of the region’s visual culture.

And of course, we Filipinos have our own long history with fans. These little cultural connections are particularly interesting when traveling through Spain. They appear in the architecture, the language, everyday objects and, perhaps most noticeably, the food.

One of Ronda’s best-known local sweets is Yemas del Tajo, a small, golden-yellow confection made primarily from egg yolks and sugar. The name refers to El Tajo, the famous gorge that divides the town. Traditionally associated with Ronda’s convent history, the sweet was later popularized by Confitería Las Campanas, a historic pastry shop in Plaza del Socorro.

For Filipino visitors, the resemblance to our own yema is immediately recognizable. Having grown up eating yema, which was one of my favorite childhood sweets, I was naturally curious to try Ronda’s version. And it was very good! The Spanish confection has a delicate, soft texture and a rich sweetness from the egg yolks. It’s not exactly the same as the Filipino version, but the similarities are unmistakable. 

It’s fascinating how food traditions travel across cultures and generations. Something that originated thousands of kilometers away can eventually become such a familiar part of our own childhood memories. If you’re visiting Ronda, Yemas del Tajo is definitely worth trying. It’s a small taste of local history, and for Filipinos, a rather sweet connection to home.

Ronda also occupies an important place in the history of Spanish bullfighting. Its Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda, inaugurated in 1785, is one of Spain’s oldest and most architecturally significant bullrings. Built in the Neoclassical style, the arena is particularly beautiful, with a circular ring surrounded by two levels of seating supported by stone columns and graceful arches. The town is closely associated with the Romero family, whose influence helped shape the traditions of modern Spanish bullfighting.

A view of Ronda’s Plaza de Toros from Catalonia Ronda, where cocktails come with a front-row view of the historic bullring and the mountains beyond.

While bullfighting remains a controversial practice today, the arena itself is an important part of Ronda’s architectural and cultural heritage. Visitors can explore the bullring and its museum, which documents the history of the sport and the families associated with it. We, however, enjoyed a rather different perspective. Directly across the street is Hotel Catalonia Ronda, a hotel with a rooftop terrace overlooking the historic arena. And the view is quite something.

From above, you can look directly into the bullring, with the mountains and countryside of Andalusia stretching into the distance. It’s a wonderful vantage point from which to appreciate the arena’s elegant proportions and its setting within the town. 

And enjoying the view over cocktails makes the experience even better. For anyone visiting Ronda, it’s a lovely place to stop, sit back and appreciate one of the town’s most famous landmarks from a different perspective.

Of course, a visit to Spain would hardly be complete without enjoying one of its most celebrated culinary traditions. Jamón. In Ronda, Leocadio La Casa del Jamón is a particularly interesting stop for anyone who appreciates good Spanish cured ham.

Founded in 1989 by master ham cutter Don Leocadio Corbacho Bocanegra, the specialty shop is devoted to one of Spain’s most recognizable delicacies. What made our visit especially memorable was having Don Leocadio himself demonstrate the art of carving jamón. There is considerably more to slicing good jamón than one might imagine.

Don Leocadio Corbacho Bocanegra demonstrates the art of carving jamón, sharing a taste of one of Spain’s most prized culinary traditions—and a personal lesson in getting the slice just right.

The position of the ham, the angle of the knife and the thickness of each slice all contribute to the final tasting experience. Watching Don Leocadio work was fascinating. With practiced precision, he carved thin, almost translucent slices, explaining how the technique helps bring out the ham’s flavor and texture. Naturally, we got to taste the results.

The delicate slices practically melted on the palate, releasing the rich, savory and slightly nutty flavors that make good jamón so special. But beyond the tasting, what made the experience interesting was meeting someone who has spent decades perfecting his craft. In Spain, jamón is much more than cured ham. Its production, aging and carving are all part of a culinary tradition that continues to be appreciated across generations.

And watching a master at work gives you an entirely different appreciation for something that might otherwise appear quite simple. It’s also why traditional food shops are worth seeking out when traveling. Sometimes, the most memorable food experiences aren’t necessarily found in restaurants.

After exploring Ronda’s centuries-old streets, traditional shops and historic landmarks, our next stop couldn’t have been more different. Just outside town, surrounded by olive groves and the rolling countryside of Andalusia, stands LA Almazara by LA Organic. An olive oil mill designed by Philippe Starck.

Yes, that Philippe Starck. The celebrated French designer whose unconventional approach has shaped everything from iconic furniture and luxury hotels to contemporary architecture.  And if you’re familiar with his work, you’ll know that conventional isn’t exactly his style. Imagine driving through the peaceful Andalusian countryside, past olive trees and traditional agricultural landscapes, and suddenly coming upon an enormous red structure rising dramatically from the land.

It looks more like a contemporary art installation than an olive oil mill. Opened in 2024, LA Almazara is both a working olive oil mill and a destination dedicated to the production, history and appreciation of olive oil. But what makes it extraordinary is the architecture.

The monumental red building features oversized sculptural elements, including an enormous bull’s horn and a giant olive, along with dramatic industrial details and unexpected proportions. 

One of its most striking features is a terrace suspended by massive metal chains, opening toward the surrounding olive groves and mountains.

It is bold, theatrical and unmistakably Starck. The contrast with Ronda’s historic town couldn’t be more striking. Or should I say, more Starck? Pun unintended.

Inside LA Almazara, a working olive oil mill shares space with art, a museum, and a restaurant. A visit offers a closer look at Andalusia’s olive oil tradition, best appreciated over lunch and a tasting of different oils with bread.

Yet despite its contemporary appearance, LA Almazara remains closely connected to the region’s heritage. Olive cultivation has shaped Andalusia’s landscape, economy and cuisine for centuries. Here, that tradition is presented through an entirely different architectural perspective. 

And it works surprisingly well. The building’s dramatic interiors, sculptural installations and carefully framed views of the countryside make it a destination in itself. It’s also an interesting example of how contemporary design can bring new attention to something as traditional as olive oil production.

Spain is the world’s largest producer of olive oil, with Andalusia accounting for much of the country’s output. Here, olive oil is an essential part of everyday cooking and an important part of the region’s agricultural heritage. Before lunch at LA Almazara, we had a guided olive oil tasting that introduced us to the different flavors and characteristics of extra virgin olive oil.

Served in small bowls, the oils ranged from mild and fruity to more intense varieties with grassy notes and a slightly peppery finish. We also tasted them with bread, a simple way to appreciate how much flavor a good olive oil can bring to a meal.

A slow sip, and a new appreciation for what we pour onto our plates. Olive oil tasting with LA Organic—a lovely reminder to give even the simplest ingredients a little more attention. Some travel discoveries come home as a bottle for the table.

It was an interesting introduction to one of Andalusia’s most important agricultural products, and a reminder that, much like wine, olive oil has its own complexities worth discovering. The experience continued with lunch at LA Almazara, where the relationship between food, agriculture and architecture came together.

Dining inside a Philippe Starck-designed olive oil mill, surrounded by the Andalusian countryside, is certainly not your usual lunch experience. The building’s dramatic contemporary design provides an extraordinary setting, while the olive oil tasting gives the visit a deeper connection to the land and its traditions. For travelers interested in food, design and unusual experiences, LA Almazara brings all three together in a way that feels distinctly different from the conventional sightseeing itinerary. And for those who appreciate beautiful spaces, there is certainly no shortage of interesting details to discover.

As someone who has spent years working in the wedding industry, I couldn’t help noticing how extraordinary LA Almazara would be as a setting for a fashion or editorial shoot. Fortunately, we had the opportunity to do exactly that. During our visit, we managed to squeeze in a mini photo shoot with ProudRad’s Al Avellana, taking advantage of the building’s striking architecture and beautiful Andalusian light. The results were spectacular.

A different side of Ronda: surrounded by olive groves, LA Almazara’s striking red structure, bull’s horn, and giant olive bear the unmistakable imagination of designer Philippe Starck | Photo by Al Avellana

The dramatic red surfaces, sculptural elements and bold geometric lines created an unexpected backdrop, quite different from the historic streets and romantic landscapes usually associated with this part of Spain. It was another interesting side to LA Almazara, demonstrating how contemporary architecture can create new possibilities for creative expression.

And certainly, another reason to appreciate this rather extraordinary place.

What makes Ronda particularly interesting is how naturally these very different experiences come together. Within the historic town, centuries-old buildings, traditional shops and culinary customs continue to preserve the character of Andalusia.

Just a short drive away, LA Almazara presents an entirely different interpretation of the region, one that embraces contemporary design while remaining connected to its agricultural heritage. One celebrates tradition by preserving it. The other celebrates tradition by presenting it in a completely new way.

And both have their place. It’s also what makes Ronda appealing to different generations of travelers. Those who love history and old-world charm will find plenty to appreciate in the town itself. Food enthusiasts can discover traditional sweets, expertly carved jamón and the complexities of Andalusian olive oil. And for travelers interested in contemporary architecture and design, LA Almazara offers something completely unexpected.

The wonderful thing is that you don’t have to choose between them. In one day, it’s possible to explore centuries-old streets, discover little cultural connections to the Philippines, taste traditional Spanish specialties, enjoy cocktails overlooking a historic bullring and experience an extraordinary contemporary olive oil mill. Not bad for a relatively small Spanish town.

Ronda may be best known for its spectacular bridge and beautiful old-world setting, but there’s considerably more to discover beyond the postcard views. And perhaps that’s what makes it worth visiting. It’s a place where the past remains very much alive, but where there’s also room for something entirely new

A full day is enough to explore Ronda’s historic center, particularly for first-time visitors. If you plan to include LA Almazara, consider extending your visit or staying overnight.

Leocadio La Casa del Jamón: A specialty shop known for traditionally cured Spanish jamón.

Confitería Las Campanas: Try Yemas del Tajo, Ronda’s famous egg-yolk confection.

Catalonia Ronda: Enjoy cocktails at the rooftop terrace overlooking the historic bullring and surrounding mountains.

LA Almazara by LA Organic: A Philippe Starck-designed olive oil mill offering guided visits, olive oil tastings and dining experiences.

Allow approximately 90 minutes for a guided visit and tasting, or three to four hours if including lunch and time to explore the architecture and take photographs. Reservations are recommended.

Ronda is approximately 1.5–2 hours by car from Málaga and can also be visited from destinations along the Costa del Sol. The historic center is best explored on foot, while a car or arranged transfer is convenient for visiting LA Almazara.

Travel tip: Wear comfortable walking shoes. Ronda’s cobblestone streets and sloping walkways are beautiful but require a fair amount of walking.